Colombia: September 9 – 21, 2017
This trip was initially planned as an extension to a FAM trip to the NW part of the country however after the FAM trip fell through I decided to continue with the itinerary and to add a few more days. The primary objective was to spend three days in three different sites which were good for hummingbirds; two in the Central Andes (Los Nevados Park, Rio Blanco Reserve) and one in the Western Andes (Las Tangaras). By the end of the trip I would record 52 species of hummingbirds (12 lifers) out of a total of 284 species of birds (78 lifers). While the overall total could have been higher I sacrificed time in the field for time around the feeders trying to get decent photographs of each species. When it was all said and done I wouldn’t have changed a thing and I had an amazing time. I definitely saved some areas and birds for next time, which I’m hoping will be very, very soon.
Saturday – September 9, 2017: Departed Tucson around 10:50 AM with a 2.5 hour layover in Dallas and arrived into Bogota a little before midnight. With my flight early the next AM I decided to sleep in the airport which would save about $100 in a hotel and transfers. I had done this on my last trip to Ecuador and while I didn’t get much sleep in the airport an abundance of coffee and new birds powered me through the next day before crashing hard the following night.
Sunday – September 10, 2017: Unfortunately, the 06:00AM Avianca Airlines flight from Bogota to Manizales this morning was cancelled due to weather in Manizales and we would end up boarding the plane only to have to disembark 30 minutes later. After exiting the plane we were returned to the gate where we would wait for the next few hours for instructions. By around 10:00AM we were informed that we would be flown Pereira, a small town about an hour and a half southwest of Manizales, and then take a bus the rest of the way to Manizales. Having not slept the previous night I was exhausted but happy to be getting closer to my destination. The flight to Pereira took about 45 minutes and we experienced perfect weather the whole way. As soon as we picked up our luggage on arrival we loaded up the busses and were on our way. When all said and done we arrived in Manizales (bus station) at 01:20PM just as the first arriving flight into Manizales was passing overhead. I was met minutes shortly thereafter by my driver for the trip, Rodrigo Gil.
Rodrigo was hired to get me from Manizales to Nevado del Ruiz and from there to Rio Blanco and would return home each time after dropping me off. Due to the length of time it takes to get to Las Tangaras and the fact that the birding sites are far away from the lodge he joined me for the three days there and later returned me to Medellin near the end of my stay.
As I loaded up my things in the SUV, Rodrigo asked if I had already eaten lunch and while I was quite hungry I was extremely anxious to start making our way up the mountain. After a quick stop to pick up bottled water we were off to Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados. The park is made of 8 volcanos of which Nevado Del Ruiz (17,400 feet) is the most noteworthy. Nevado del Ruiz last erupted in November of 1985 which triggered a series of lahars (a slurry of pyroclastic material, mud, and water from melted glaciers) which flowed down the mountainside killing nearly 25,000 people. While the eruption was rather small and only 10% of the glacier was lost, the loss of life was extraordinary and would forever change the way the country manages these areas. Due to the significant amount of glacier remaining and the regular activity of the Nevado del Ruiz volcano, many suspect the next volcanic event will be more destructive in nature.
As we raced our way up the mountain I was once again impressed by the wonderful condition of the roads, of which Rodrigo used every inch. We made another quick stop just before reaching the top for some Coca tea and to scan a small pond below where we would find an Andean Teal and 2 Masked Ducks. After no more than 10 minutes there we pushed on reaching the park entrance (+14,000 feet) around 02:30PM. One of the main draws to this area is the Buffy Helmetcrest, which is a Colombian endemic and only found in paramo of the Central Andes. Their distribution is quite small and the area near the main entrance to Parque Los Nevados is the easiest place to see this bird, which was one of my targets for the trip. After meeting with a young park attendant he pointed me in the direction of where an individual was being seen and joined us for the search. After about 15 minutes of inactivity I saw a bird perched below the road, along the trail. Moving quickly from the ranger station I was able to get a few photos as it moved from its perch to a cluster of purple flowers (pictured below) where it fed. Buffy Helmetcrest typically feed on Espeletia sp. (locally referred to as frailejon) and also use the soft velvet of the leaf for nesting material.
The park ranger mentioned that they oftentimes nest right on the leaves so these plants are quite important. After a minute of watching it feed it moved just to the side of the road and perched in a Espeletia just long enough for me to snap a few quick photos before it took off again. Not ready to leave but realizing it was getting late I gave the area another 15 minutes. With no other sightings we departed just as the area was being engulfed in clouds. We reached Termales del Ruiz by 04:00PM and after about an hour at the feeders, where I picked up 7 new hummingbirds, it was time to call it a day. Night at Hotel Terminales de Ruiz. Ebird list: 1, 2, 3, 4
Monday – September 11, 2017: Woke up around 05:00AM and was downstairs in the dining room by 06:00AM, where I ran into the director of Colombia Birding who was escorting a client on a scouting trip for a tour scheduled for April/May, 2018. Breakfast was served by 06:30AM and I was at the hummingbird feeders by 07:00AM. Spent the next three hours watching the feeders and taking photos of the 10 species being seen which included Shining Sunbeams, Golden-breasted and Black-thighed Pufflegs, Great Sapphirewings, Buff-winged Starfrontlets, and Viridian & Tyrian Metaltails. Between the Sunbeams seen at the feeder and those further down the road my estimate of 50+ birds on the morning triggered an alert in Ebird, and so I revised the number and added a note. In terms of diversity and approachability this is by far one of the best hummingbird sites I’ve visited.
Around 11:00AM the Colombia Birding group was back from their trip to the park entrance and were setting up at the hummingbird feeders. Having had the place to myself all morning it was time to stretch the legs and to look for something new. After a quick stop to grab water I left the hotel and walked the road heading down the hill towards the waterfall. Along the way I would pick up many new birds, including Purple-backed Thornbill and Golden-crowned Tanager, both of which are common outside of the hotel ground though never seen near the feeders. After an awkward encounter with a couple of teens about 2.5km down the road I decided to turn around before reaching the falls. It was all for the best though as I was suffering from a serious headache (likely from dehydration and a bit of altitude sickness) and also hadn’t slept much over the past few days and therefore a midday siesta was in order. Night at Hotel Terminales de Ruiz. Ebird list: 1
Tuesday – September 12, 2017: Having finally caught up on sleep and past my severe headache from the previous day I woke feeling invigorated and ready to do some walking. After breakfast which consisted of the usual arepa and scrambled eggs I grabbed my things and set off up the road this time, back towards the park turnoff. Purple-backed Thornbills were thick for the first 500m of the road and around the bend I would encounter two Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucans and two Crimson-mantled Woodpeckers.
In addition to this I would run into a small mixed species flock which consisted of the usual Superciliated Hemispingus, White-tailed Tryrannulet and Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant. Roughly 1km up the road the forest disappears and there is a small farm house and barn just off the road. While it was quite cloudy I could hear a group of parakeets further up the hillside, though for some reason was convinced that they couldn’t be Rufous-fronted. Continuing on past the farmhouse to about the 2nd kilometer I was able to look back at the hillside, now at eye level, and with the clouds blowing in and out I was able to clearly see that they were indeed Rufous-fronted Parakeets. I was quite excited by the find and was thinking that I would have to hike to the park road (another 7km) before I’d have the chance to run into a flock. Hiking another kilometer up the road I realized I had forgotten my water at the hotel and was short on food for an all day hike. With the sun burning away the clouds and the temps steadily increasing I decided to turn around and try to bird some of the forested areas I had passed through rather quickly on my way up the road. While I would find a few more flocks closer to the hotel the only new addition would be a pair of Andean Guans. After a lunch that consisted of Clif bars and coffee I spent the afternoon at the hummingbird feeders and walking the trails around the lodge. Shortly after noon the clouds would move in and it would rain off and on throughout the rest of the day.
Having the entire place to myself it was also time soak in the thermal hot springs, which for many is the main draw to the hotel. While the thermal springs were known as early as 1850 it wasn’t until 1941 that the local government would realize the commercial value of the site and begin investing in a hotel and man-made “baths.” While the original pool is still in existence (new tile was being installed around the pool) the hotel was working on a new circular pool just below the dining hall. It looked like the concrete to the pool had just been poured when I arrived and on my very last day I woke to find it completely full with spring water.
Termales del Ruiz was recently remodeled and is fairly nice however the high cost (~$84USD/night) may deter most locals from staying the night. During my 3 night stay there were no more than 2-3 other people there each night. The cost to use the hot springs is somewhere around $1USD (day use) and activity can be rather high on weekends with locals from Manizales coming to take a dip. This lodge is well suited for birding (especially photography) and hopefully people realize the potential and make a concerted effort to protect the surrounding area which borders the park. If anyone does plan to visit note that the hotel can be quite cold at night as it’s quite cavernous and lacks central heating. There are small wood stoves located throughout (including the dining area) but are lacking in the individual rooms (for good reason). A small electric heater is provided but due to the poor insulation it’s not all that effective. If visiting remember to bring cool weather clothes. Night at Hotel Terminales de Ruiz. Ebird list: 1
Wednesday – September 13, 2017: Woke around 05:00AM and started packing my bags. As one of three people staying at the lodge you would think that there would be special attention given to the guests however that wasn’t to be the case and the hotel was completely void of any staff. After wandering around the dining and kitchen area I decided to head out around 06:00AM to take photos of the hotel grounds. Returning around 07:00AM it seemed the staff was just beginning to wake and with breakfast unlikely for another hour or more I decided to bird the road heading towards the waterfall. This time however I would only make it to the first major bend. Along the way I finally heard an Andean Pygmy Owl and using playback was able to draw an Occelated Tapaculo close to the roadside though I would fail to get a glimpse of the bird. Lacking any good Tyrian Metaltail photos I spent a bit of time trying to get close to an individual that was protecting a flowering tree from a pair of Purple-backed Thornbills. When the birding is good a couple hours in the field can disappear and before I knew it was 08:30. With my driver picking me up at 10:00AM I had just enough time for breakfast and one last sweep of the hummingbird feeders.
Rodrigo showed around 10:20AM and we quickly loaded up and left for Manizales. We made a few stops along the way to photograph plants and to look at birds, eventually making it back to Manizales by 12:30PM. Instead of having lunch at a roadside restaurant or at Rio Blanco Rodrigo suggested we have lunch at his house. As we would wind our way through the city I realized how nice it was to have a driver. While I wouldn’t think twice about renting a car again in Costa Rica, the traffic I would experience in Medellin, Bogota, and even Manizales was definitely beyond my comfort level.
As we pulled up to his condo, Rodrigo’s wife opened the front doors, which basically was a car port located just a few feet away from the front living room. The inside was small but extremely clean and nicely decorated. Having heard that we were coming for lunch a few of his family’s friends also joined. Finishing lunch around 1:45PM we left for the short drive to Rio Blanco and along the way picked up enough water for my three days there.
The entrance to Reserva Rio Blanco is 3km for the city along a poor and unassuming dirt road, which follows a stream which originates in the Reserve. Reserva Rio Blanco consists of about 4,950 hectares of clouds forest and is managed by Aquas de Manizales (city water service). The entrance to the Reserve, near the small reservoir, is fenced and everyone living and working on the reserve is employed by the water department. As we passed through the gate and made our way up the hill it quickly became apparent how birdy the area would be as we immediately encountered 3 Andean Motmots, among other things, in less than a kilometer. Arriving around 2:30PM I was offered my choice of rooms and slowly got settled. After a cup of coffee and some discussion about when I would be picked up on Saturday I said goodbye to Rodrigo. As soon as he left the Reserve guide (Arturo Parra) showed up, fully prepared to head into the field, and so I grabbed my things and we slowly made our way up the road.
Anyone visiting the Reserve is required to be joined by a guide and so this was the only time on my trip where I would have company during my outings. Arturo had only been at the Reserve for 45 days prior to my arrival though seemed to already have an impressive knowledge of the birds and area in general. While Arturo and I were in the field Maria and Humberto (pictured below) would be busy taking care of the lodge and preparing meals. During my time at Rio Blanco I would be the only guest, though unlike Termales the staff at Rio Blanco would go out of their way to make sure I had a pleasant stay.
As noted in many trip reports Rio Blanco is a surprisingly great place to bird, especially being so close to the city. Whether you head uphill or downhill from the lodge you’re likely see something new every time you step foot out the door. Needless to say we didn’t make it too far up the road before we encountered our first flock.
Powerful Woodpecker was a highlight along with Green & Black Fruiteater. By 05:00PM we were back at the lodge and I would spend the rest of the daylight hours at the hummingbird feeders. Rio Blanco is much lower in elevation than Termales and as such the temps are definitely warmer, however evenings can still be rather cool. Night at Rio Blanco Reserve. Ebird List: 1
Thursday – September 14, 2017: Awoke this morning ~4:00AM and worked on some of my notes from the previous day. By 05:00AM the Rufous-collared Sparrows were singing and by 05:30 the dawn chorus was in full effect. Breakfast was served at 06:30AM as scheduled and Arturo arrived shortly after to start putting bananas out at the fruit station. Shortly after 07:00AM a Bicolored Antpitta began calling roughly 50 meters from the guest house and in less than 5 minutes we had great views of our first antpitta of the day. The lighting was rather poor for photography but I tried anyways unsure if I would see it again. After our success with the Bicolored we returned to the lodge to check out the activity at the fruit feeders. Besides the two Andean Guans who had been there since early this morning there were a couple of Blue-winged Mountain-Tanagers and also a Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager, which was new for the trip. After about 30 minutes here we headed up the road to the next Antpitta station which serves both Chestnut-crowned and Brown-banded Antpittas. The next hour would be one of the best times I’ve had at a feeding station with a total of 3 Chestnut-Crowned and 2 Brown-banded eventually showing up and all within a 15 foot radius. The Brown-banded showed up first which I was told is normally the case as they like to get fed and out before the Chestnut-crowns arrive. Arturo mentioned that the Chestnut-crowns can be rather combative and so the Brown-banded typically try to avoid them as much as possible by getting in and out before they arrive. After some rather amazing views and a visit by a Tawny-bellied Hermit, and a Gray-browed Brushfinch who was stealing worms, we moved on to the next feeding station (Slaty-crowned Antpiita) at the top of the hill. The feeding station is set only 4 feet off the road and I was highly doubtful we would have much success due to a few motorcycles and cars passing by as we waited. Fortunately, I was wrong and we had rather excellent views of 1 individual.
Moments after our viewing we had two Golden-headed Quetzals perch overhead, adding to what was becoming the perfect day of birding. We would go on to get 1 more Brown-banded Antpitta at the station past the gate (right turn at the top of the hill) and another Slaty-crowned Antpitta just before the open area along the left hillside, putting our total from this morning at 9 individual antpittas (4 species). Just before noon we made our way back to the lodge for lunch encountering yet another mixed flock. Here among other things I would pick up my first of the trip Blue-capped Tanager.
After lunch we planned to set out around 2:00PM however this got pushed back closer to 03:00PM due to rain. This gave us a little more time to watch the feeders and do some photography. It was just before setting out that we would see the Green-fonted Lancebill which is one of the least common birds at the feeders and often stays concealed at the bottom on of the larger bushes which makes getting a photo impossible. After the rains cleared we set off down the road in search of Green Jay and Chestnut Wood-Quail. Two Wood Quail were spotted roughly a kilometer down the road at the start of the trail however I was looking n the wrong direction and missed them as they sped off over the hillside. Fortunately they were heading in the same direction as us and we would spend the next hour playing tape in hopes of pulling them out into the open. While we were able to draw them to the edge of the trail they remained hidden in a tangle and so while we were able to obtain partially obscured looks, no photos were taken. Realizing that we may have spent too much time here we continued on down the trail. There wasn’t much bird activity so our attention turned to tree identification and looking at butterflies. The trail was relativity steep and we would eventually drop down to a small stream that would feed in to the small reservoir near the entrance to Rio Blanco. Here we would find 3 White-capped Dippers swimming around in the open reservoir. I had expected to see them higher up along the stream and so this was totally unexpected. After following them to the overflow we walked to the guard house and started looking for the Wedgebill Hummingbird which had supposedly been seen a few days prior foraging in some bushes along the road.
After 15 minutes of looking I was quite doubtful we would connect with one and with it getting dark and knowing we had quite a long walk back up the road I thought it might be a good idea to get going. As soon as I mentioned this to Arturo he quietly turned me around and pointed to a small bird perched on a wire, a Wedgebill! After another 10 minutes of watching him feed I was able to get a couple satisfactory photos and we set off back up the road. We would hear a few more Chestnut Wood-Quail calling close along the road and a few Andean Motmots near the bottom. As we approached the halfway point it became completely dark and it was here that we would encounter a Rufous-banded Owl just off the road. After spending a few minutes trying to locate it we pushed on knowing that we were going to be rather late for dinner. There wasn’t much conversation on the walk as we were both focused on climbing the steep road as quickly a possible and looking forward to a beer to celebrate. Unfortunately, there was only 1 beer left at the lodge and so I offered it up to Arturo as thanks for a rather incredible day in the field, topped by 4 species of antbird and 14 species of hummingbird. Rio Blanco is truly a fun place to bird! Night at Rio Blanco Reserve. Ebird List: 1, 2, 3
Friday – September 15, 2017: Woke to the sound of Rufous-crowned Sparrows (05:30AM) and the buzzing of birds at the feeders just outside my door. The day started off similar to the previous with breakfast at 06:30AM and the first Antpitta feeder (Bicolored) at 07:00AM. It seems the standard morning routine is to visit the Bicolored at 07:00AM, Chestnut-crowned/Brown-banded by 08:00AM and the first Slaty-crowned around 09:00AM. Invariably we seemed to always drag out the first two stops either due to extended viewing or in working birds that just haven’t shown. Arturo keeps a log for each site and seems genuinely distressed when a bird doesn’t show. A black and white cat showed up at the lodge over the past week and I noticed it when I arrived. It was seen again this morning hanging around the Bicolored Antpitta station and there was quite a bit of concern as it could pose a major problem for the antpitta sites which is a major draw to Rio Blanco.
After about 15 minutes at the Bicolored site I decided to head back to the lodge as the fruit feeders were picking up activity. From the deck of the lodge I could easily see Arturo as he continued to call the Bicolored. A few minutes after returning to the lodge 4 Blue-winged Mountain-Tanagers showed up at the feeders and would quickly take a piece of banana they fly off into the nearly shrubbery. Chestnut-naped Brushfinch also made an appearance. After about 20 minutes I saw Arturo packing up his things and as he looked over in my direction he gave the thumbs up. Apparently the bird finally showed and he seemed much at ease. After a quick cup of coffee we left for the next station arriving around 08:30ish. The sun was already starting to shine on the forest floor and I thought we might be a bit too late but minutes after putting out the worms we had a Green and Black Fruiteater arrive to take the first round of worms.
It was an amazing site for sure and one that I wasn’t expecting even though I had read previous accounts. Shortly after the Fruiteater arrived so did a single Chestnut-crowned & Brown-banded Antpitta, both of which were far more secretive than the previous day. As the activity died we packed up and moved on to the next site arriving around 09:00AM. Today we were greated by two Slaty-crowned Antpittas, both putting on quite a show. After about 30 minutes there we continued on to the overlook with a few stops for birds including Streak-headed Antbird, Beryl Spangled, Blue and Black, and Blue-winged Mountain-Tanagers, along with Golden-headed Quetzals calling somewhere closely kept us occupied. Before we knew it was 10:30AM and we still had two more stations to visit. Passing the through the gate at the top of the road we stopped to take a few photos at the overlook then continued on into the forest.
No more than 10 meters in we would run into another mixed species flock. After picking through everything Arturo looked up one more time before we were about to leave and spotted our first Masked Saltator. After taking in some nice views we tried our luck getting photos however it was moving to quickly for me to get a shot. Arturo however was finally able to pick up his best photo of this species, one that he’d been trying to get for some time. Moving on we visited both antpitta feeders with only the Bicolored showing. We waiting about 25 minutes for the Slaty-crowned and though we heard them calling nearby they were no-shows. On our way back and just past the Bicolored station we were treated to both a male and female Plushcap. After some extended views I tried my luck at getting photos but once again came away empty-handed. As we exited the forest we decided beers were in order and stopped at the house near the antenna to celebrate. Shortly after we quickly made our way back to the lodge for lunch (trucha and papas) arriving around 12:30PM.
Once again the rains came after lunch and our afternoon outing would be postponed until around 02:45PM, which meant more time at the hummingbird feeders. While the mornings were consumed by visits to the antpitta stations my two afternoons here were more focused on sites further away from the lodge. Having walked down the road to the main entrance yesterday, this afternoon we explored the upper road which leads further into the reserve. Shortly after passing the meadow we encountered a Ocellated Tapaculo calling a few feet from the road. I’ve never had luck seeing Ocellated Tapaculos and while this was by far the closest bird I’ve come across it would allude me once again. A few minutes further up the road we would also hear Chestnut-naped Antpitta, making a total of 5 species recorded during the past two days. The birding was slow but we would pick up a few new things such as Masked Trogon and Flammulated Treehunter. We would also discover a nest/roost for Pale-legged Swallows under a large bromeliad (pictured below) high up in a “Robles,” and spent some time watching the birds coming and going.
Around 05:30PM we started making out way back and by 06:00PM we reached the meadow just as the sun had set. Here we picked up a Band-winged Nightjar and shortly afterwards called in a Stygian Owl, which we were able to spot perched 40 above the road. Also calling was a White-throated Screech Owl. Night at Rio Blanco Reserve. Ebird list: 1, 2
Saturday – September 16, 2017: Woke around 05:00AM and started packing. Met Maria on the deck shortly after 06:00AM and had breakfast by 06:45AM. Spent the next hour birding around the lodge and feeders. At 08:00AM Rodrigo arrived and I said my goodbyes and loaded up for Las Tangaras. We took Arturo and his wife (Maria) and daughter (Julietta) into Manizales as it was his day off and they would use it to replenish supplies and take care of some business in town before head back later in the evening.
Around 08:45AM Rodrigo pulled off the main highway and took a detour to a spot near a fruit and wine plantation in the area known as San Pelligrino. Our 45 minutes stop would net roughly 30 species including Acorn Woodpecker, Golden-rumped Euphonia, Blue-headed Parrot, White-vented Plumeleteer & Rufous-tailed hummingbird, and Streaked Saltator, almost all were new for the trip. Connecting back with the main road (Route 50) we continued north turning on route 29 just past Irra. Stopped for gas in El Rodeo at 11:17AM. As it was a Saturday the traffic was quite bad which was not helped by the significant amount of construction along the way. About 1km out of El Rodeo and just before the toll station (now on Route 25) we stopped at a bridge just off the main road (11:30-11:45AM) over the Rio Felicia. There was quite a bit of human activity on both sides of the river and foot traffic over the bridge but I still picked up a few things (Spectacled Parakeet, Anhinga, Rock Pigeon, and another Red-crowned Woodpecker).
Around 12:30PM we reached La Pintada, where the Rio Felicia meets the much larger Cauca River, and would start making our way west on route 25B. Most of the surrounding area past La Pintada is covered in citrus plantations and the weather is much warmer and humid. The Cauca River seperates the Occidental and Central cordilleras and from its headwaters flows 600 miles where it meets the Magdalena River, which then runs for another 264 miles before reaching the Caribbean Sea. Little did I know at the time I would be seeing quite a bit of this river later on in the trip.
We stopped for lunch in a small town (Peñalisa) at the intersection of 26b and 60. While the restaurant was full of police and military officers both Rodrigo and I would still periodically walk over to where we could see the car to make sure everything was ok. After lunch Rodrigo took me to a site just a few km away which is supposedly good for Grayish Piculet, another endemic and a highly sought after bird. By the time we reached the site it was round 2:00PM and blazing hot. There wasn’t much activity though I did pick up Squirrel Cuckoo, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Golden Crowned Warbler, and a few other things. I think I may have heard 1-2 individuals along the road but was never able to get a glimpse. Returning back to the intersection we connected with Route 60 heading south and west. We made another stop just outside of Ciudad BolÃvar and would pick up a dozen or so new birds for the trip such as Black-throated Mango, Black-chested Jay, Fork-tailed Flycatcher (a lifer), and Yellow-faced Grassquits.
Due to the construction and traffic along the way, Rodrigo made a point to keep the pedal to the floor and after a full day on twisty mountain roads I knew that I would get car sick. We reached Las Tangaras by around 06:30PM and while the staff was preparing dinner and excited to hear of our travels, I decided to skip dinner and turn in early. It wasn’t until I actually sat still in my room for a minute that it hit me and all of the sudden it was time to get it all over with. Night at Las Tangaras – ProAves. Ebird list: 1
Sunday – September 17, 2017: Felt great this morning and happy to get the previous night behind me. Breakfast was served around 06:30AM and there was enough light to squeeze in about 40 minutes of birding around the lodge beforehand. Most of the usual suspects were seen; Flame-rumped Tanager, Andean Motmot, Blue & Gray Tanager, Scrub Tanager and so on. The hummingbird feeders primarily consisted of Andean Emeralds, Rufous-tailed hummingbirds, Brown Violetears, and Steely-vented hummingbirds, with the occasional visit of a Bananaquit or two. After breakfast we packing up Rodrigo’s vehicle and headed to the hummingbird feeders at the top of the hill. We would reach the site by around 08:30AM and during our three hour stay we would see 15 species of hummingbird.
Before heading back for lunch we decided to head down the road further to see if we couldn’t find a mixed species flock. After about 20 minutes we struck gold and were watching a flock that contained Red-headed and Toucan Barbet, Black & Gold Tanager, Beryl-spangled Tanager, Tyrannine Woodcreeper, and a small group of Crested Ant-Tanagers. I likely missed half of what was in the flock as I was too busy trying to identify each new bird and get photos whenever possible. Just a bit further down the road we encountered a group of Red-Bellied Grackles, a bird we would see a few times throughout the day along the roadside.
By around 01:15PM we decided to head back for lunch (02:00PM). After lunch I spent a bit of time around the feeders and no more than 2 minutes before we left to head up the mountain again I picked up a Long-billed Starthroat making a total of 18 hummingbirds for the day. We left the lodge at 03:00PM and made it to the top by 03:50PM. With a limited amount of daylight on our side and the clouds hanging low we decided to walk about an hour out on the trail to look for Gold-ringed Tanagers then return. Just as we hit the trail it started to rain and the visibility was worsened by the minute. Just past the gate and before getting into the forest we had a nice tanager flock which contained Fawn-breasted, Rufous-throated & Palm Tanager and Blue-Winged Mountain-Tanager, but unfortunately no Gold-ringed. To our right and just a few feet off the trail was a pair of White-headed Wrens, an unexpected but welcome find. Once we entered the forest the clouds completely dropped and we had troubling making out anything more than 20 feet away. We ran into another flock of Crested Ant-Tanagers near a stream crossing less than a kilometer in. By 05:00PM the insects started their chorus and with conditions as they were we decided to head back to the car and return to the lodge. We made it back to the lodge by 06:00PM with dinner around 07:00PM. Night at Las Tangaras – ProAves. Ebird list: 1, 2, 3
Monday – September 18, 2017: Breakfast at 06:30AM and departed for the mountain by 06:45AM. The plan for the day was to walk out to the end of the tanager trail rapidly and then slowly bird my way back. Rodrigo wanted to join and as much as I wanted to go solo I thought having a second set of eyes might be needed and gave the ok. I was informed the night before that the best chance for Gold-ringed Tanager is at the far end of the trail (3km). As we would find out the trail basically dead-ends at the end of a landslide. We reached the end and passed 3-4 mixed species flocks along the way but we were on a mission and kept the pace steady with no stopping. We reached the end around 08:30AM and waited for about an hour at the landslide. During that hour the only birds seen were a few Grey-breasted Wood-wrens and a Tawny-bellied Hermit. Realizing that finding a Gold-ringed Tanager was going to be more difficult than expected, especially without tape, I was determined to pick through every flock we encountered on the way back. Our first stop on the return was one of the ProAves viewing areas, this one dedicated to the Gold-ringed Tanager. On our way to the end of the trail I was too focused on reaching the end to stop and read the small worn out sign stapled to one of the wood beams otherwise I would have made a stop. We gave the viewing area a good 30 minutes and the only birds seen or heard were a few Andean Solitaires. While it was mostly overcast when we started by the time we turned around the clouds had disappeared and it was becoming quite hot. Packing up our things we made it roughly 20 meters down the trail when I encountered the first tanager flock which included Glistening-green Tanager, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Black & Gold Tanager, Blue-winged & Hooded Mountain-Tanagers, Beryl-Spangled Tanager, Flame-crowned Tanager, and Rufous-crested Tanager.
Pressing on we made it to the next viewing station just as the front wave of the tanager flock arrived. The area provided a bit more shade and better viewing and the list of species recorded nearly doubled, though unfortunately I still couldn’t find a Gold-ringed Tanager to save my life. A few Glistening-green Tanagers and Black and gold Tanagers were highlights. I did my best to ID as many birds as possible which meant taking photos of some of the closer birds for Identification later and looking through a book for the more elusive birds. Needless to say I probably recorded half of what was actually there which is somewhat disheartening. Birding solo and having a mixed species flock descend upon you can be both exhilarating and utterly frustrating at the same time as there is this overwhelming sense that you’re missing something, and in this case it could be a Gold-ringed Tanager.
Night at Las Tangaras – ProAves. Ebird list: 1, 2
Tuesday, September 19, 2017: Transfer from Las Tangaras to Medellin. Due to the bridge being out in Bolombolo we were forced detour going north on route 25b along the Cauca River. It was a scenic drive and there were plenty of birds along the way however I was never sure we would make it in time for my late afternoon flight and so we never stopped for more than a minute or two at any given time. Night at the Black Tower Hotel (Bogota).
Wednesday, September 20, 2017: Scheduled a rather early pick-up this morning (05:00AM) and was beginning to question my decision as I only got 3 1/2 hours of sleep. I was basically packed when the alarm went off so grab my things and went to the desk to check out. The driver didn’t speak any English which was fine as my Spanish was getting much better than when I first arrived. I was amazed at the number of cyclists climbing the road out of Bogota towards Chingaza and also impressed by their motivation getting out so early in the AM in the pitch dark. There were maybe 200 cyclists stretched out from the bottom to the top, half on road bikes the other on mountain bikes or hybrids.
We spent the morning at Chingaza, driving to the end of the road and birding our way back. On our way in I noted the section with the highest concentration of Espeletia and decided that this would be the best place to focus my search for Green-bearded Helmetcrest. Unfortunately, the Espeletia looked to be past their bloom with many flowers decomposing on the stems. With few flowers available and a rather small area of Espeletia along the road to cover I knew it would be hard to find a Helmetcrest. After a few hours of walking the road and seeing just about everything but a Helmetcrest I decided that it was probably futile to waste the entire day there and instead opted to visit the nearby Observatorio de Colibries in hopes of finding a Blue-throated Starfrontlet and both Trainbearers.
The Observatorio ended up being a rather productive but after a few hours there I realized I still had half a day left and figured why not try to find another hummingbird for the list. The two options I gave myself were Chicaque National Park and the Enchanted Gardens in San Francisco. While the Enchanted Gardens would probably add a few more to the list than Chicaque I opted to visit the National Park. Unfortunately, to get there from the Observatorio we would have to drive directly through Bogota and deal with the afternoon traffic. The trip took nearly 3 hours and killed most of the rest of the day, however we were able to make it with enough day light to find a couple of Golden-bellied Starfrontlets, the last bird I would see in Colombia and the perfect ending to the trip. I can’t wait to return and explore more of this amazing country. Ebird list: 1, 2
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